From gorgeous Antigua, take a trip to the Guatemalan Highlands, away from the tourist crowds of Central America and experience authentic modern Mayan culture. With a mix of colonial influences, Catholicism and traditional Mayan practices, this place is a feast for the senses. Experience small, regional markets then hit the likes of Almolonga – famed for its giant vegetables – and Chichicastenango – the country's most popular and colourful market full of homemade wares and medicinal plants. Depart the highlands and head for Lake Atitlan, surrounded by mountainous volcanoes. Take a scenic boat road to the shamans that guard the shrine of Maximon and share in some spirits while they tell you stories of local life and why this culture holds the chain-smoking deity in such high regard.